Question re TS354c « Thread Started on Apr 23, 2009, 12:51am »
HI all!
Not to sure if this is where I should be asking question here or not but I will try.
I just purchased a TS354C , FEL ( TZ04D with optional shovel) and BH ( LW-6 three point mount) :
1- Can any one tell me the fluids viscosity and grades that are need? Keeping in mind that I live in Toronto , Canada and I will be using it in the winter time. I read some where that you may need to use a different anti freeze ? a ASC or something??
2- Has any one converted a BH for three point to frame mount or have and information on how one should fabricate this?
3 - When I purchased the tractor I was wanting to get a not so aggressive tire on it ( came with AG tires) but was told that Turf and R-4 tires where not available from this manufacturer so the importer said. I would like to get a set of rims and turf tires for it ( hopefully used set would be nice) but I was reading that you must have set to match the tractor because of it being 4 wheel drive. Any help, suggestion , leads on what to get , where to get , or what would be the same as would be very appreciated.
4- Flushing the tractor out It was suggested to use Kerosene in engine, gear case, hydraulic etc. Should one start with this for flushing out all area( for start up, run for a few minutes ) than drain and than fill with new fluids?
5- Modifications I should be looking at with this tractor?
I am going to start on Friday to unload and assemble the tractor so I am just doing some home work before hand.
Thx Dale!
« Last Edit: Apr 23, 2009, 12:56am by wolverine4u1 »
Not to sure if this is where I should be asking question here or not but I will try.
I just purchased a TS354C , FEL ( TZ04D with optional shovel) and BH ( LW-6 three point mount) :
1- Can any one tell me the fluids viscosity and grades that are need? Keeping in mind that I live in Toronto , Canada and I will be using it in the winter time. I read some where that you may need to use a different anti freeze ? a ASC or something??
2- Has any one converted a BH for three point to frame mount or have and information on how one should fabricate this?
3 - When I purchased the tractor I was wanting to get a not so aggressive tire on it ( came with AG tires) but was told that Turf and R-4 tires where not available from this manufacturer so the importer said. I would like to get a set of rims and turf tires for it ( hopefully used set would be nice) but I was reading that you must have set to match the tractor because of it being 4 wheel drive. Any help, suggestion , leads on what to get , where to get , or what would be the same as would be very appreciated.
4- Flushing the tractor out It was suggested to use Kerosene in engine, gear case, hydraulic etc. Should one start with this for flushing out all area( for start up, run for a few minutes ) than drain and than fill with new fluids?
5- Modifications I should be looking at with this tractor?
I am going to start on Friday to unload and assemble the tractor so I am just doing some home work before hand.
Thx Dale!
Hey Dale,
This is a very good place to have this Thread,, in the Taishan Section and if you would like,, we can change the Name of this Thread to "Assembleing My New TS354C,, since it will all be relevant and a continueing process.
Now I will begin to try and Answer your Question's,, keeping in mind,, that I am no expert in any Stretch of An Imagination. I will give you my Advice,, as if this were My Tractor,, and how I would do it. I'm sure that you will get a lot of other Advice Too,, and I sure hope so,, because it's alway's better to know how other's would do this as well.
First of All,, I would Study Rolfo's Thread,, on how he did his,, as I personally think that he assembled his and did the prep,, about as good as can be done. Here's Rolfo's Thread:
Question #1. I would study the manual's first and foremost,, to get what they recommend,, and follow there advice on the Viscosity,, especially since you are in such a cold Environment. What does your Book say? If you can take a picture of the Chart,, and post so that we can advise. How cold does it get there in the Winter,, and how cold do you anticipate operating the tractor in? How hot does it get there in the Summer? Many with the Jinma Tractor's , in the Northern States,, are using 80w90 in the Transmission and Front Drive. I think that in the Hydraulic's many in the Northern State's,, are using AW32,, but not sure on that,, and you may need to use something Thinner than even that for your Hydraulics. Down here in The Southern State's we are using 15w40 Diesel Engine Oil for the Engine,, but I would think that you'll need a Diesel Oil that is Thinner for your Area. Like maybe a 10W or Straight 20 or maybe even a 5W,, don't know,, I'm just guessing,, so you'll have to do your homework.
If it were my tractor,, I would want to change All the Fluid's,, but if the Oil's look ok,, then maybe till the Breakin period,, which on my Jinma was at aprox. 30 hour's,, then Drain and Flush Transmission,, and Hydraulic's.
I would take the Fuel Bowl off,, and drain the tank,, and flush with some clean Diesel Fuel. If the Fuel that come's out is Clean,, then I would put the Fuel bowl back on,, and Fill the Tank. If the Fuel that came out was dirty,, then I would Disconnect the Fuel Line that goes from the Tank,, At the Fuel Pump,, and Clean any Filter Screen in that Fuel Line,, and Flush that Line out.
There was a lot of Talk about us having Wet Sleeve Engine's a while back. So I got some of that Antifreeze at Walmarts for Wet Sleeve Engine's. To be honest,, I don't know what we have,, but as far as I know,, this stuff is good for either Wet or Dry Sleeved Engine's. But if your Book specifically say's Ethylene Glycol,, then Go by what your Book say's,, and that goe's for anything else to. Alway's go by what the Book says,, unless you know better.
Question #3. I would use the Ag Tire's for a while to see how they work for you,, before spending the money's on other tire's,, until you get more feedback,, and are sure.
Question #4. My book said to use Diesel Fuel,, so that's what I used.
As you can see,, I skipped some #'s,, so that tells you that my knowledge is very limited.. Sorry,, but my mind,, is such a small one...
Dale,, this is a Whole lot of Work and Time to do this right in the Beginning,, so don't rush it. If it takes you a Month,, or even 2 or 3 Month's,, then that's no problem. The Main thing with these Chinese Tractor's,, is get it right the 1st Time,, or we get to do repair work.
Study those Manual's,, there is a whole lot of useful information in mine. sometime's I have to reread several time's to understand what they are saying,, but well worth it. Some of it may seem humourous,, like using clean Creek Water,, but don't think for a 2nd,, that the Chinese are Dumb. I think that they stick stuff in there,, just to keep us American's thinking that,, whilst they continue to Sell more and more of The Chinese Tractor's.
Ok My Small Mind is Drained,, so the next member will have to continue with Helping Dale get his Brand New Tractor Put Together and Running in Tip Top condition,, The 1st Time, Joe
biggerten Moderator ~ 3rd Officer member is offline
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Joined: Aug 2007 Gender: Male Posts: 266 Location: Near Superior, WI
Re: Question re TS354c « Reply #2 on Apr 23, 2009, 8:20am »
I'm in Northern Wisconsin. here's what I use.
1) Oil. At the 50 hour mark, I started using Shell Rotella 5W-40 synthetic. Prior to that I used 10W40 conventional oil. Some folks would argue that I should have avoided the synthetic for a bit longer. Some folks are Baptists, some are Catholics.
2) Hydraulic fluid. I use AW32. However, it still takes a few minutes at idle in cold temps before the hydraulics work, so don't be surprised.
3) Antifreeze - mine is a wet sleeve engine, so I use Final Charge. However, I did not buy the 50-50 mix, it's only good to -34F (that's -37C), I bought the concentrate and mixed 60-40 because I can get colder temps than that.
4) Gear oil - I use 80W90 (GL-5 and MT-1 rated). I'd like to use synthetic there as well, but it would set me back about $300 versus $40. I may be short sighted, and perhaps should spend the extra $$$.
5) I have a 3pt LW-7 on a Jinma 354, no issues. I use AW32 in that, as well, but it probably doesn't matter. I put it away for the winter, who can dig when the ground is frozen?
6) I don't know about your engine, but you should consider a lower radiator hose heater or a frost plug heater or some such to assist in starting and allow for faster warmup on the winter. It's easier on the system, even if you have a direct injection engine that will start easier at cold temps.
7) If you're going to plow snow, you may want a set of chains for the rears.
8) A battery minder/float charger is a good investment, as well.
Good luck and have fun.
EDIT: Please note that I have a Jinma 354, not a Taishan. Some tractors have a common sump for the hydraulics and transmission, I have no idea whether this is true with the Taishan (the Jinma's are separate). Like Joe says, consult your manual. I pointed out the above merely to show what I think appropriate weights, etc. for a climate similar to yours.
Re: Question re TS354c « Reply #4 on Apr 30, 2009, 12:06pm »
Here are some pic of the tractor on the trailer . As I unloaded it I noticed lot of little problems. Grease fitting busted off , water in bearing , seat busted, injector hose crushed, fuel bowl cracked and leaking. I started to fix them as I went but than when I looked at the block it was frozen and the frost plug gone. The engine was not drained before it was shipped and being in Canada, it did hit some cold weather getting here.
Joined: Mar 2006 Gender: Male Posts: 2,743 Location: Alabama Gulf Coast
Re: Question re TS354c « Reply #6 on Apr 30, 2009, 3:04pm »
Here are some pic of the tractor on the trailer . As I unloaded it I noticed lot of little problems. Grease fitting busted off , water in bearing , seat busted, injector hose crushed, fuel bowl cracked and leaking. I started to fix them as I went but than when I looked at the block it was frozen and the frost plug gone. The engine was not drained before it was shipped and being in Canada, it did hit some cold weather getting here.
Hey Dale,
Oh Man,, I know this is Big Let Down for you,, and We are all so sorry to hear about this. Over the year's we have also heard about some other's that have had problem's Self Importing too. Not All but some.
The Small Item's is no real problem,, and can be submitted for parts replacement.
However the Freeze Plug missing,, and I am assuming Blowing out,, from the Pressure of the Coolant Freezing,, just guessing on my part though. The Engine is what I would be so concerned about. Block may be cracked or something else damaged fromt he Freeze Up. For me,, I would be hoping that they would be willing to just Switch out the Whole Tractor for a New Tractor. Is that what you wish for them to do?
They'll probably want pic's of the Engine,, and the other issue's so that they can evaluate on their end.
Hopefully they'll do the right thing,, and We'll be keeping our finger's crossed that they will.
Again,, So Sorry that this has happened,, but keep us updated on how it is going, Joe
Edit: I've never had a Freeze Plug to blow out on any of my Engine's. I did a Google Search about Freeze Plug's and what happen's when they Blow out. According to what I got out of the info on the net: Freeze Plugs are plugs put in to close the Hole's that are used in the Process of Engine Casting. However Freeze Plugs may or may not prevent the Block from Cracking due to Coolant Freezeing. So I guess the only way to find out if the Block is Cracked is to have it Pressure Tested and/or start using the Engine to see what happen's.
If this were my tractor,, I would want a Change out of the Whole Tractor,, even if I had to pay for the Shipping. However if they are not willing to do this,, then I would before Cranking Up,, retork the Head Bolts,, and adjust the Valve Lash. Drain all the Coolant out,, and Flush. Then I would add coolant,, and also an additive to Seal for Block and or Head Gasket Leaks. I use a product in all of my Water Cooled Engines and have for many many year's,, called "Bars Leak". Come's in a Gray Container,, and come in 2 different sizes,, one for big engine's and one for small engine's. I use this stuff,, from the get Go,, even on a Brand New Engine,, and everytime that I change out the Coolant. I use as directed,, and be sure that I shake it up really good,, and make sure that there is no clumps in the Bar's Leak,, before pouring it into the cooling system.
I have read here that some swear by another Additive,, that you can get at a Pharmacy,, I believe,, that many have also said works really good to seal a crack or Head Gasket Leak.
Found the name of that other Additive off the Net: sodium silicate, also known as water glass, buy it at a drug store in a quart bottle. Drain coolant, flush, fill with water, add sodium silicate, run it, up to 80C, block rad to get temp up if need be, run for 2 hours. Drain and leave block drains open and rad cap for 24 hours. Fill with water coolant mix and your good to go. Get the stuff from a drug store it is stronger and not cut. Don't know if these directions work,, as I've never used this stuff,, but might be helpful to you.
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Re: Question re TS354c « Reply #7 on Apr 30, 2009, 11:23pm »
Dale,
I too recommend trying to get the seller to make things right. They may want to see pictures of the problem.
At a minimum I would think they would send you a new engine if more than new core plugs are needed. If it turns out you're stuck with the problem read on...
I have seen an engine survive freezing without cracking. If you don't see any external cracks, clean up the plug bores and install new core plugs. Put coolant in and run it and see what happens.
I would replace all of the plugs that show any indication that they are pushed outward. (There might be some core plugs on top of the cylinder head that are hidden under the valve cover). If the engine is cracked in the water jacket it can probably be welded. (Cast iron welding is best left to a professional weld shop).
There is the chance that there is a crack or cracks in critical areas where machining may need to be done after welding. In that case it may not be cost effective to repair.
IF YOU DON'T STAND FOR SOMETHING, YOU'LL FALL FOR ANYTHING.
2005 Jinma 284 LE 435 hours, destroyed by fire 8/25/07 (restoring). 2007 Jinma 254 LE, Prince PTO pump, LITW 7600 BH modified to close mount, attached to modified Jinma BH frame, modified Jinma BH tank with screw-in suction screen, 10 micron return filter, sight glass & temperature gage, hydraulic cooler.
Re: Question re TS354c « Reply #9 on May 3, 2009, 10:56pm »
Hi Joe and thank you very much for your support.I must say that you all on this site are very helpful and very supportive. I am so amazed to meet such nice people. Well the importer ordered another tractor and that will take 60 to 90 days. I also just got an email tonight that the manager of the factory will contact me to find out more . I will let you all know the updates as I get them, Once again thank you all so much.
Dale
« Last Edit: May 3, 2009, 10:59pm by wolverine4u1 »
Hi Joe and thank you very much for your support.I must say that you all on this site are very helpful and very supportive. I am so amazed to meet such nice people. Well the importer ordered another tractor and that will take 60 to 90 days. I also just got an email tonight that the manager of the factory will contact me to find out more . I will let you all know the updates as I get them, Once again thank you all so much.
Dale
Hey Dale,
Believe me,, I have been worried about your situation,, and this sounds like really good news to me.
Since We are All Chinese Tractor Owner's here,, it is like a Little BrotherHood,, and We all know how important our Tractor's are to us,, and how much they help us,, in our Daily Live's. So We know how important this Tractor Purchase is for you,, and Believe me,, we want our Own Tractor's to be in Tip Top Running Condition as Well as All Our Member's Tractor's here. That's where we benefit Learning from Each Other on the Different Maintenance Issue's. Sort of like a SnowBall Effect ~ One post's a Maintenance Procedure with Picture's and then Other's Return the Favor. It's a Whole Lot's Of Fun Too...
It appears that they are going to switch out your tractor for another brand new one,, am I right? I sure do hope so.
Be sure to remind them several time's to drain the coolant from the radiator and the Engine Block,, so that this doesn't happen again. I'm sure that it won't happen again,, but you know what they say about Lightning striking in the same place more than once,, right...
I am guessing that the next tractor will be coming in the warmer season,, and that will be a good thing as well.
We are so glad for you Dale,, and Please keep us updated on everything, Joe
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Sorry,, but my mind,, is such a small one...
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